In fishing ponds and lakes, irrigation reservoirs, and stock tanks, pond scum algae can be a serious problem. It can cause water intakes to fail, cause mosquito problems, and cause fishing to be a swampy, messy, less than fun experience. So, how do you get rid of it.

Pond scum can be removed manualy by skimming it from the top, but scum skimming is not much fun, and can be quite time consuming.

There are a lot of products on the market for getting rid of pond scum algae. Copper products, both granular, and liquid can be spread or sprayed across the top of the algae, causing it to die and sink. Diquat also works well. Whichever product you choose, follow the label directions to a “T”. To do otherwise is a violation of federal law, and can do severe damage to your pond or lake.

If the body of water is completely covered, do not treat more than from one quarter, to one third of it at a time. Dying vegetation uses up dissolved oxygen, and if too much is depleted, it can kill your fish. Proper chemicals, properly applied, will not usually kill fish, but dying vegetation will.

Pond scum, it goes by a lot of different names, but most of the time, it is really a type of algae known as filamentous algae.

Algae, are very primitive plants, there are several types, including the planktonic algae that is often suspended in the water profile of a pond or lake, and gives it that green tint that we are all familiar with. It is a single cell, that feeds aquatic invertebrates, which, in turn, feed larger creatures and so on up the food chain.

There are more advanced forms of algae as well, such as “Nittela”, and “Chara”, which resemble vascular rooted plants.

Filamentous algae, or pond scum starts growing at the bottom of a body of water, and gradually moves to the top by virtue of the buoyancy it provides through the creation of oxygen by the process of photosynthesis.

Pond scum, algae

In the future, when you pull your vehicle into the fuel station, you may have choices like these: Regular, Mid Grade, and Pond Scum. Yes, it is true, there is a movement to make pond scum the next great fuel source. Stop laughing! I am not joking. There are even some big names, with big money, and a lot of science behind it!

But, If you have a pond or lake on your property, you probably aren’t ready to start putting it into your fuel tank just yet. There is a lot of research that is yet to be done, and a refining process to be, well, refined. In the mean time, you most likely dont want the mosquitoes and other problems associated with excessive fillamentous algae growth, so we will offer a little information on getting rid of it.

Mosquitoes like cover as well, and a heavily vegetated area, complete with pond scum and algae provides protection for them and their larvae, and keeps the fish from being able to eat them. This kind of cover gives snakes, bugs, mosquitoes, and other unwelcome guest a place where they feel right at home. Unfortunately, it can make life miserable for you!

Well, whether you like to do your own aquatic management, or leave it to someone else, Texas lake solutions can help. We have tips and tricks, information on water quality, pH, fertility, and aquatic weed control, and a full line of services. At Texas Lake Solutions we are sure that you can find something here to improve your pond or lake, and keep those nasty critters away. Pour a cup of coffee, and take a look around. We are happy you dropped by!

• Unfortunately, it also means that a lot of the aquatic weeds are beginning to harden off and become tougher to kill. It would be a good idea to get started on it now, before it gets much later. The longer you wait, the harder it will be to get rid of them, and the more it will cost!

• If you have a dock, a boathouse, or a or a boat ramp in need of repair, you might want to look at the water level now, and the long range weather forecast, and start planning that before the rain returns.

• If you have not already done so, it is the time of year to start thinking ahead about fall maintenance. If you are planning any major renovation work, you should be planning it now. If you want to lower your pond or lakes water level to dredge the edges, or get rid of aquatic weeds by redoing the bottom, it will take some planning, and coordination to get it done.

• If you haven’t had your pH level checked in a while, it would be good to get some idea of what it is, and start planning toward liming in the fall. If your impound is at the right pH in the spring, and you start your fertilizer program on time and follow up consistently, you will have a much better chance of preventing weed problems.

• You might also think about removing brush in the area, allowing for better access to the water and better water quality.

• If you plan to lower the fertility of an over fertilized body of water, you should be thinking of planting a good vegetative barrier at the end of the lake or pond where water enters, and around any area that provides watershed. bare areas should be made into grassy waterways.

The best “green” aquatic weed control.

The very best, “greenest” method of controlling any pest, animal or vegetable is prevention. In terms of aquatic weeds that means a lot. If you can prevent anything, it is much better than treating or managing it later. That should be a “given”. Avoiding infestation by being vigilant in inspection and cleaning of boating equipment, making sure that there is a sufficient amount of suspended algae in the water to prevent sunlight from reaching the bottom, and if needed, and practical, raising the water level, or making the edges deeper by excavation are all good prevention measures.

Is biological control always “green”?

Often, biological controls for insects and weeds are considered “green,” just because they are biological and not chemical. This is not always the case. You have to look more deeply into the anatomy of the situation. A biological control is most often a natural predator from the plants native area. If the plant we are trying to rid ourselves of is an exotic, we are introducing another exotic into our native environment.

Most of these are studied by our top scientists to insure that they will be safe, but there is always a chance that an unknown factor could be missed, or that the situation could change, and that the new predator we have introduced to get rid of the problem, becomes a problem itself! As far as biodiversity is concerned, biological controls may be the least environmentally friendly.

What is the “green” potential for other methods of dealing with aquatic weeds? The answer might surprise you!

What about mechanical control?

Mechanical controls that cause fragmentation can cause the spread of most aquatic plants therefore, from the biodiversity standpoint, they are problematic. If done properly with the proper equipment, and at the right stage, they can be very helpful.

Chemical control.

Oddly, chemical controls, though seen as the least environmentally acceptable form of control by many, may pose the least threat to the environment. Unlike the biological controls which might have some unknown factors, chemical controls are a known quantity and can be handled accordingly. They are less likely to cause the infestation to spread than mechanical controls.

If you have made it through the rest of the steps in this guide, you should by now, have a nicely vegetated pond,

As I said at the beginning, you cannot hope to support any bass in a pond that has no more than a surface acre of water. The best fish for a small pond, is catfish.

Adding a batch of fathead minnows will help to increase the yield.

The idea of fertilizing a pond seems strange to many people, but is something that may need to be done.

Fish

Flocking:

Fertility

Checking pH is a simple matter of getting a cheap testing kit, and testing the water.

You can buy one at some of the major discount stores, or a pool supply place for a few bucks. It will be very handy for you.
pH should not be below 6.8, or the water will not support the algae bloom necessary to support the aquatic invertebrates (bugs) needed to help support the fish.
If the pH is not high enough, you will need to use an agent, usually agricultural lime, to get it higher.
How much you will need to use, is dependent on the pH, and the area to be covered. In general, from 1 to 4 tons of agricultural lime is applied per acre. Liming can be difficult work, but it is well worth the effort if needed. It will make every other aspect of your lake or pond management work better. There are some products becoming available which should make lime applications a little less labor intensive.

How often must I lime?

pH should be tested on a regular basis, but re-liming may not be needed each year. One treatment can last for 3 to 5 years. There ares some cases however, where annual re-liming would be desirable. In such cases smaller amounts of lime are needed per application, usually about 25% of the original application.

Next:

Managing Water Clarity