Posts Tagged ‘aquatic weed control’

Aquatic Weed Control | Biological Doesn’t Equal Green!

Friday, August 8th, 2008


The best “green” aquatic weed control.

The very best, “greenest” method of controlling any pest, animal or vegetable is prevention. In terms of aquatic weeds that means a lot. If you can prevent anything, it is much better than treating or managing it later. That should be a “given”. Avoiding infestation by being vigilant in inspection and cleaning of boating equipment, making sure that there is a sufficient amount of suspended algae in the water to prevent sunlight from reaching the bottom, and if needed, and practical, raising the water level, or making the edges deeper by excavation are all good prevention measures.

Is biological control always “green”?

Often, biological controls for insects and weeds are considered “green,” just because they are biological and not chemical. This is not always the case. You have to look more deeply into the anatomy of the situation. A biological control is most often a natural predator from the plants native area. If the plant we are trying to rid ourselves of is an exotic, we are introducing another exotic into our native environment.

Most of these are studied by our top scientists to insure that they will be safe, but there is always a chance that an unknown factor could be missed, or that the situation could change, and that the new predator we have introduced to get rid of the problem, becomes a problem itself! As far as biodiversity is concerned, biological controls may be the least environmentally friendly.

What is the “green” potential for other methods of dealing with aquatic weeds? The answer might surprise you!

What about mechanical control?

Mechanical controls that cause fragmentation can cause the spread of most aquatic plants therefore, from the biodiversity standpoint, they are problematic. If done properly with the proper equipment, and at the right stage, they can be very helpful.

Chemical control.

Oddly, chemical controls, though seen as the least environmentally acceptable form of control by many, may pose the least threat to the environment. Unlike the biological controls which might have some unknown factors, chemical controls are a known quantity and can be handled accordingly. They are less likely to cause the infestation to spread than mechanical controls.


Managing Fertility In Ponds And Lakes

Wednesday, August 6th, 2008

Managing fertility in ponds and lakes.


The idea of fertilizing a pond seems strange to many people, but is something that may need to be done.

The reasons for adding fertilizer are pretty simple. Fish eat many types of aquatic invertebrates. These are bugs that exist in pond settings. The bugs need something to eat to get fat for the fish, and that something is algae.

Algae Bloom

The algae that serves this purpose best, is phytoplankton. This is a simple, single cell organism that grows in suspension in the water of ponds and lakes. The nice blue green tint in the water is what you are after. In fact, you want it to be dark enough that you can not see an 8 inch black and white disk at a depth 18 to 24 inches. Algae bloom has the added benefit of reducing weed populations because of the reduction in light penetration.

Fertilizer

The fertilizer you need to use, should be high in phosphorous, and low in the other two main ingredients.
When you look at the analysis of a bag of common fertilizer, you will see 3 numbers, divided by a dash. The middle number is the one you are after. There are several good products on the market for pond and lake fertilizing. and several methods of application. If a powder is used, it can be spread as evenly as possible on the surface of the water, or with an aquatic applicator which will allow it to dissolve gradually. If a liquid is used, it should be mixed with water before application, or it will sink to the bottom and be neutralized. After you have fertilized once, you should check the pond periodically for visual depth. You will need to fertilize regularly at 2 week intervals through the summer, checking the light penetration as you do. Light should not penetrate deeper than 24 inches, and should not penetrate less than 12 to 18 inches. If visibility is less than a foot, suspend fertilizing until it clears to 18 to 24 inches. Fertilizing should begin as soon as the water temperature reaches 60 degrees. I will include more information on how to construct a sechi disk, the type and amount of fertilizer, and the intervals between applications, as time permits.
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